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Hinge Insert
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Door Hinges and Furniture Tips
Butt hinges
These are available in pressed steel, cast steel, brass and cast brass in sizes ranging from 50mm to 100mm, for fitting internal or external doors and wardrobe or cupboard doors (but not fire doors).
Rising butt hinges
Sometimes it is useful if a door raises itself as it opens so that it can clear things like carpets. Rising butt hinges are designed to do this. They are usually made from cast steel, in right- and left-handed sets. The top end of the hinge pin is open-ended, and as long as the hinge is fixed on to the frame with the knuckle (or the pin) clear of the frame, the door can be removed by lifting it off the pins.
Rising butt hinges are fixed in a manner similar to that described for butt hinges. But the following addi¬tional points should be considered:
• doors fitted with this type of hinge tend to be self-closing owing to the weight of the door on the spiral seat¬ing of the hinge
• the hinges must be accurately located on the door and the frame, otherwise only one hinge may be resting on its spiral seating - fit one hinge and then the other.
• to allow the door to close without catching the frame, the top corner of the door must be tapered.
T-hinges
These hinges are made from steel and galvanised or japan¬ned to protect them from corrosion. They are lightly built and suitable for use on ledged-and-braced doors and gates. Framed, ledged-and-braced doors may be hung on T-hinges or on standard butt hinges.
Strap hinges
These are sturdier than T-hinges and are ideal for garage doors and large heavy gates. This sort of hinge is held in place by screws and a coach bolt. It has an open pin so the door can be removed from the frame - by taking off the upper pin cup - without having to unfasten the hinge from the door.
Door furniture
Doors need something for you to open and close them with - usually a handle of some sort - and some¬thing to keep them in the closed position once they have been shut. On external doors the retaining device is usually a lock. On internal doors, including cupboard and wardrobe doors, a number of dif¬ferent devices can be used
Ball catches
These are basically a casing containing a spring-loaded ball or roller which holds the door closed when it engages with a strik¬ing plate (keep) in the door frame. They are simple to fix - insert the catch into a prebored hole in the door and hold it in position with screws.
Spring latches
These hold a door more firmly than ball catches. To open the spring latch a lever handle or knob is required.
Lever handles
These are used to open latches fixed in doors. They work by rotating a square metal spin¬dle which passes through the door and the latch. Lever handles come in a variety of shapes and finishes -including anodised aluminium and brass.
Thumb latches
These are the tradi¬tional latches for ledged-and-braced doors and garden gates.
About the Author
Now you have gotten door hinges and furniture tips. You should have an idea about how to furnish your home ecologically. Along with the furniture, you should also know how to replace a countertop.
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Frequently Asked Questions...
How do you fix a sagging door where the dead bolt and door latch in the door are aligned below the door jam?
This is a heavy oak door; the Baldwin lock is an actual metal insert in both the door and door jam. There are four hinges holding up the door.
Answer:
This is just how a door sags over time. It will lean away from the hing and towards the latch jamb. Assuming the door has hung in the opening for over 1yr you will need to pull the hinge jamb closer to the framing in the adjacent wall. You many need to remove the hing pins and set the door aside. Loosen the door casing to allow the hing jamb movement and then run longer screws into the hinges, as stated furthest away from the hinge pin to draw the hing jamb tight. A little Hammer persuasion might be required so use a piece of board to avoid damaging the jamb while striking with the hammer. If you can remove the Stop molding ( the piece that stops the door from swinging like a saloon door) then remove it and run long drywall screws under it and into the framing on the hinge jamb side. The above actions should coax the hing jamb back into plumb. Reinstall the door on the hinges and check for closure. If this does not work but the door still can close and appears otherwise in line, then move the latch lower to align it with the deadbolt shaft. I'm sure the lock and latch are handsome you might have to take a Dremel to the latch to adjust the opening of the part that accepts the deadbolt shaft.
